With a lot of hard work from Ed H. and Steve P. our 4′ x 8′ CNC router has achieved a milestone, instead of the X axis sitting on the ground it has taken a leap up and is now mounted, ready for the Y and Z axis to be mounted to it along with the electronics and motion control.
The Finished Product (so you keep reading)
So I moved into a new place and need furniture (which you might tell from the background of some of these photos). But, I kept looking at big box store stuff and it was expensive and poorly made. So I figured I could build something myself for cheaper and it would last longer! Plus I get to build something, which is half the fun.
Step 1: Find Inspiration
Step 2: Design Your Own
I drew out a bunch of hand sketches to figure out dimensions and proportions. I actually wandered through a couple furniture stores and checked their measurements for a 6 person table… I also measured the room its going in to make sure I had space to get around it.
Then I pulled out my middle school drafting skills and an engineer’s scale to see if everything would work and kind of went from there.
Step 3: Buy Material
This was something like 45 board feet of 6/4 cherry that I had roughly planed. By this point in the project I didn’t really know if I wanted rough cut lumber or if I was going to plane/sand/joint the whole top together as one solid piece.
First part of the bill, $200 for all this wood.
Step 4: Rough Layout
I bought most of this material before I actually had a scale drawing I liked and before I had final measurements that I was going to build to. So I rough cut these to 66/68 inches long as I knew I would end up losing a bit of length during glue up.
Step 5: Build the Legs
Substep 5.1: Miter the steel for the legs.
The legs were 1×3 inch steel tube. 24 inch for the width and 36 inch stock cut to 29 inches long. So that plus the ~1.5 inch table top would be right about 30 inches high. (which seems about standard)
You can also see one of the dimensional sketches I carried around for reference.
Something like $120 for all the steel.
Substep 5.2: Learn to Weld
(Something something, draw an owl.)
My uncle taught me how to weld a year or so ago to build a similar looking entry way table so I had some experience welding before this. Plus I can soldier, which is nearly the same thing.
This was my first attempt at welding the whole set of legs into a square structure.
This was the second set of legs. This set went a lot smoother as I figured out the process a bit and got into a groove for welding.
I also welded on the little tabs which I drilled out for 1/4 inch lag bolts.
Substep 5.3: Grind.
Lots of grinding. Also I ground my name into the underside of one leg to sign my piece. I also finished these with a clear matte finish so that they wouldn’t rust.
Step 6: Assemble the Table Top
At this point I decided that I wanted to edge joint everything together and I wanted the top smooth so I didn’t get little crap in the gaps. So I took it back to Kettle Moraine Hardwoods and had them plane the rough lumber down to 1 3/8 inch and straight edge both sides. Then I put everything together once more for a rough layout.
Substep 6.1: Biscuits and Glue
A hearty breakfast?
Because the boards were still kind of rough as I didn’t plane them down enough to get all the warp out of them, I decided to use biscuits to help the glue up and keep the top aligned and flat so that once I had to finish it I didn’t loose any more thickness. Also I tried to match up colors a bit differently than when I had rough boards.
(Side note, remember to alternate grain on each board to help prevent cupping)
Substep 6.2 Sanding
So here it is after glue up. To save myself a bunch of time I took it back to Kettle Moraine Hardwoods as they have a 42 inch drum sander you can use for a couple bucks in shop fees. Then I transported it to the Makerspace to use the panel saw to square up the ends and sand it again to finish. (40 grit drum sander, 80 grit -> 180 grit -> 320 grit on the palm sander)
Step 7: Finish
I really like oil based finishes as they bring out lot of the natural color and figure of the wood. Plus I had some lying around from that entry way table I mentioned earlier so I knew how the finish would turn out. (Velvit Oil)
You can see the difference in color (sorry for the poor color balance) but the cherry has a beautiful redness to it. I also applied Paste Wax to the top as extra insurance against stains and water, etc.
Step 8: Attach Legs
I kind of eyeballed this. But I did use a square and my engineer’s scale to try to align everything as best as possible. I did pre-drill holes for the lag bolts as there would be no way the bolts go in without them.
Step 9: Celebrate!
Also I stood on the table to make sure it was stable, and it was. So that worked out.
With perhaps more natural lighting.
And a close up of some of the figure in the cherry.
So for $350 in materials ($200 for wood with lots left over, $120 for metal, $30 for shop fees) I built a table I’m pretty satisfied with. Plus its way cooler than MDF crap with veneer or paint to cover up crappy wood. And should last quite a while… I hope.
One of the members dropped off a box of rejected 5 start lead screws. I measured the splines and 3D printed a lead nut that works with them and used it to make the elbow work. The lead nut seems to slide very well. I haven’t measured the backlash but I suspect it could be a bit tighter, or I could make a two part version with some backlash take up if more precision were needed.
The motor already had a drive pinion pressed onto it which I used as a spline by designing a coupling with matching teeth on one end and the rod thread profile on the other. Both ends are notched so they can be clamped down with a hose clamp. It seems to work pretty well. Peviously I was using a 1/4-20 threaded rod, and the motion was a bit too slow. This lead screw has 1.25 inches of travel per rev, and seems to match the other axes far better. Plus I think it looks cooler.
As before, if you like the project, please vote for me here (Paul Sisneros – Auto Barista):
This is a 5 degree of freedom (DOF) robot arm, with wrist tilt optional as a 6th. It is mostly 3D print ready in the way that most rep rap 3D printers are, meaning you still need a few stock pieces of metal, a lot of fasteners and rods, and some motors. I started this design with an all-nighter over thanksgiving break, and it’s nearly done. To explain why it’s called the Auto Barista, this is an entry in a contest called the smarter life challenge (I’m currently in 2nd place by only 33 votes for a trip to Germany and $1500, scroll to the bottom for how to vote) my entry was originally to make a smart coffee maker. I eventually decided that accomplishing the goal simply by piping ingredients from one process to another would be boring, after all this isn’t my work where I have to design the most efficient system possible, this is a contest, I can have some fun with it! So I decided to make a robot arm and have it run a coffee grinder, load the machine, pour the coffee, add cream ect. This approach is also modular since I can add new movements. When I thought of doing it this way it just seemed so much more exciting than doing it by making a big box, they have those at convenience stores, and besides this gives the maker community a new 3D printable robot arm design, and the PSoC platform (which sponsored the contest) software to run CNC machines.
Besides aiming to be easy for anyone with a 3D printer to replicate once I finish the design, I wanted to use some unique methods that I can’t usually put in my industrial designs, and to make everything reference back to the base. For that reason parallel bar linkages keep the wrist tilt aligned, and a linear rod which is almost a parallel bar linkage moves the elbow. If another screw were added on the linkage you could also motorize wrist tilt. For counterweight the wrist roll and grip motors are behind the elbow. A long drive rod with a 3D printed universal joint I designed runs the roll, through a set of gears, the wrist is held on with a large bearing which is clamped on the outside on one end and on the inside on the other.
To move the first link of the arm I made a large sector of a herringbone gear and mounted a motor on the first link which climbs along it. Besides being cool looking in my opinion, this gives me a 26:1 reduction in relatively little space without using an expensive gearbox. Since it was printed I webbed it out to make it more efficient to produce. Really this doesn’t hurt the strength since there are more thick walls in the directions where force is applied, though I haven’t done FEA to confirm that or anything.
The 3D printed parts (with exception of two small ones that need changes) are all done. I’ve machine the tubes for the body and cut all the rods, and I’ve wired up and mounted all of the motors. Software is also coming along quickly, the coordinated move hardware settings are working and I’m working on adding a communication stack to stream moves.
The Robot Arm In Motion
This video shows the robot arm with 3 of the axes of movement running in coordination. The motors for the grip and the upper arm are working, but I need to modify the motor couplers. I like how the parallel bar linkage and bearing on the wrist are working. I took some close-up video of the lower arm tilt gear because it’s one of my favorite details. It’s a 28:1 Herringbone gear, only the sector the robot needs is there and I webbed it out to reduce print time while keeping walls where it needed strength.
Currently the software is pretty simple. It is built on the method Max (an engineer from Cypress Semiconductor) provided in this thread. I haven’t yet added a USB stack or intelligence which would generate the moves. There is just a function called “GetNextMove” which currently gives back two positions alternately for all the axes, to show off the coordinated moves, and will later give back the next move from the com port. It will soon be able to do as many programmed motions as I want, and Coffee making steps will come soon after.
How the Milwaukee Makerspace Was Utilized
Most of the parts seen here were printed on my own 3D printer. Those that aren’t black were done at MMS, but one of the great resources I used was all of the parts I could freely try out to get things to fit. I scavenged most of the motors from the hack rack, got the metal beams from the rack in the metal shop, and pulled nuts and bolts from our hardware store shelves as needed. It really makes it faster (and cheaper) to not need a trip to the store every time you need a different bolt or nut. Plus you come up with some cool tricks, for example, the 3D printed claw is lined with rubber case feet, which give it excellent grip. I also used the mill to precision drill the mounting holes in the square tube, but that isn’t really required, I’m trying to make this design so that I can open source it when it’s done and if someone has a 3D printer and a drill, they can make it. One big change it will need to really work in that regard is a 3D print and off the shelf hardware based turn table, not everyone will be able to salvage a nice (though very used and worn) little one like I’m using. But that could have side benefits as other makers could probably use a design for a 3D printable turn table as well.
I’m currently about 30 votes from the top in second place of the Smarter Life Challenge. The prize is a trip to Germany and $1500 in parts. So if you can, please take the time to create a user name and vote. It’s such a small margin!
Here’s the link to vote (you have to create an account on the forum), I’m 13th down “The Auto Barista – Paul Sisneros”
More on plans to open source it?
Does anyone have advice about how to go about doing this? It seems like something that other people might like to use. I’m happy to share it once it’s all done and make a few modifications to make it more generally usable.
The MMPIS (Milwaukee Makerspace Pi-powered Informational System) has been moved to its permanent home and is fully operational. Witness the power of the MMPIS!
The MMPIS will let you know about the upcoming events on our calendar, display photos of members, regale you with silly quotes, tell you where to park, and make suggestions on what you should build next.
I can already hear you saying “Well that’s all good, but I need more info!” fear not dear makers, there’s a wiki page for the MMPIS with the BOM, other details, and links a bunch of blog posts about the creation of it.
(Thanks to a donated Raspberry Pi and big TV, minimal parts were needed to complete the build. If you’d like to see more MMPIS installations at the space, donate your HDMI capable TV and we’ll see what we can do.)
Just a reminder that we’ll be skipping our regular Tuesday Night Meeting / Open Night this week so you can celebrate New Year’s Eve and ring in 2014. We’ll be back with our regular weekly meeting at 7pm on Tuesday, January 7th, 2014. Join us then to find out what we plan to make in the new year, or to share what you plan to make. Meet some members, take a tour, share and learn!
If you can’t join us on the 7th, no worries… We have our weekly meeting every Tuesday night at 7pm, and it’s open to the public to come in and find out what we’re all about. We’ve also got “Builder’s Night Out” every Thursday at 7pm. There’s no meeting, so people generally just focus on their own projects, but you’ll still find plenty of makers to hang out with.
2014, we’re ready for ya!
I noticed a serious lack of light-up signs with our logo in the 3D Printing Lab, so I rectified that situation.
I took an old IKEA “Skugga” lamp and replaced your favorite coffee with a fresh new Milwaukee Makerspace logo.
If you want all the gory details (actually, I left out the bloody part) check out my blog post It’s a sign! for more info.
(Note: MakerBot Replicator 1 not included.)
We hosted this year’s Holiday Make-A-Thon on Friday, November 29th, 2013 and it was a big bundle of fun! Lots of people came and we helped them make thing. Lots of members showed up to volunteer their time sharing the maker ethos with the folks of Milwaukee, and that was great to see and be a part of.
Besides our CNC cut ornaments from previous years, new member Tom showed people how to fold a diamond-shaped ornament using paper. (He even put a tree together out of pink foam Tuesday night after the meeting just so we’d have something to hang the ornaments on.) For the CNC and laser-cut ornaments we had the typical paint, glitter-glue, and googly eyes for decorating.
There was also soldering using our tie-pin kit. Under close supervision, even kids are able to assemble this kit, which includes some surface mount soldering.
Local printmaker Jenie Gao joined us to help people make blockprint holiday cards, and we also had crowns made from felt, melty-crayon ornaments, pet collars, necklaces, beads, bracelets, and my own personal favorite…
Laser-cut ornaments that we let people design! We used Snowflake 2.0 from Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories which is a super-easy to use Processing application that lets you design a snowflake. We had two computers set up and we helped people do the design work, and then Lance would laser cut them from 3mm Baltic Birch wood. People could then decorate the snowflake they designed.
All in all, this was a great event. People came in and saw the space, made things for the holidays, and all of our members who volunteered seemed to have fun as well. A big ol’ thanks to everyone who showed up and made it a spectacular day of making!