I added a trigger and it works beautifully!
You can DL the files here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:454265 and get your pew-pew on!
My recent acquisition of a Meade ETX-90 telescope with computer go-to system for locating objects in the sky got me thinking that it would be nice to have a system to locate objects in the sky when you’re looking through binoculars or a telescope that doesn’t have a computer and motors to drive it. To that end I came up with the idea of mounting a green laser pointer, commonly used by astronomy nutz to point out objects in the sky to noobs, on a cell phone or tablet running a program such as Google SkyMap or Skeye.
After much thought and a few prototypes I came up with a system that allows a laser to mount on a phone and that assembly to mount on a tripod, a handle, or a telescope. The tube that holds the laser has adjustment screws to allow the laser to be aligned with the SkyMap on the phone. It also has to slots that fit over standard gun sight rails. On one side I have a phone/tablet bracket that has a gunsight rail and slides into the laser tube, and the other side can be used for a rail that mounts on a tripod or a handle. Extra rails can be mounted on telescope tubes. I haven’t yet designed a binocular mount, but will soon.
I printed the parts on MegaMax with Octave fluorescent red filament (that’s why the colors vary in the photos- the flash apparently excites the fluorescence in the picture with the handle). All the parts fit VERY tightly together but I included screw holes for extra security. The phone/tablet mounts on the bracket using velcro tape. I think it may be better to print or buy a cheap case to fit the phone than screw it to the phone/tablet bracket. I’ll be posting the design files to Thingiverse shortly.
We’re planning on setting up a Nerdy Derby track at the upcoming Maker Faire Milwaukee so to that end we are preparing car parts. We recently received a generous donation of filament from Inventables (thank you!) so MegaMax and others went right to work printing wheels for the Nerdy Derby cars. The goal is to print 4000 (!) wheels before the Maker Faire.
Several years ago I played with a lot of audio stuff including making binaural recordings of things like cicadas, train rides, and festivals in Japan, and the singing of tree frogs in my back yard when I lived in a forest in Missouri. Those recordings were done on a MiniDisc recorder because it was the best available audio quality recorder for people on a budget (i.e. cheapskates) like me. Time and technology wait for no one, and I’ve been getting the itch to do some recording again, so I recently picked up a Sony PCM-M10 recorder. This little machine records in many different formats up to and including 24 bit/96 ksps (though self-noise really limits the machine to about 15 actual bits). The audio is recorded onto micro SD cards so unlike the MiniDisc, you get access to the raw digital data without any compression or associated quality degradation.
My previous recordings were done using a DIY binaural microphone that used a roughly matched pair of electret condenser mic capsules mounted on a wire bail that held the capsules inside my ears. Even though those mic capsules were pretty noisy, the recordings came out pretty good. When you listen to them with headphones you get a real “you-are-there”, surround-sound experience that can be quite startling. You can hear those recordings here: http://mark.rehorst.com/Binaural_Recordings/index.html Soon, I’ll be starting a new binaural mic project to go with the new recorder, this time using much higher quality mic capsules.
In the meantime I was looking for a shock mount to use when making recordings using the built in mics. The shock mount prevents low frequency noise from handling, bumping the table the recorder sits on, etc., from being coupled to the mics through the body of the recorder. I did a web search and found only a couple unsatisfactory designs so I did what any maker would do- I made!
One of the flaws in the few designs I saw was that some of the numerous switches and I/O jacks on the recorder would not be accessible when it was bolted to the shock mount. They also didn’t look very nice. After a lot of sketching possible designs on a whiteboard and paring the thing down to a minimal implementation, and spending much too much time making a 3D model of the recorder, I came up with a printable 3-finger design that holds the recorder either on a tabletop or a tripod and keeps ALL the switches and I/Os available. The only thing you can’t do while the recorder is mounted is swap batteries (but with 40 hours record time on a set of two AAs, that shouldn’t be a problem).
I used DesignSpark Mechanical to make the recorder model and design the shock mount. DesignSpark makes rounding corners of complex 3D objects easy (nearly impossible in Sketchup), but I did run into some of its limitations that I hadn’t previously considered. One huge limitation is that there is no way to put any form of text into a drawing without some special work-arounds (use Sketchup to make text, then import into DesignSpark).
This shock mount design is available here: http://www.thingi
I printed the shock mount on MegaMax using Coex3D Aqua ABS filament.
After building the box for MegaMax I decided to try a big print. The blue 3 face cup is 130mm tall and took a little over 15 hours to print. No delamination! It’s a miracle the extruder kept working!
Well, OK, not the whole enclosure, just the parts that hold it together.
MegaMax can print big stuff but he’s had problems with large prints delaminating. The answer seems to be enclosing the printer to keep the prints warm while printing. I designed this box and 3D printable parts to hold it together so that I can take the box apart easily to work on MegaMax or move him to other locations and put it back together when I’m done. The box is 38″ D x 28″ H x 32″ W.
The box is made of 1″ PIR foam with corners suitably notched to accommodate the printed parts. MegaMax has a 450 Watt heater in the printbed so the box gets super-toasty inside. I suspect it gets a little too toasty but haven’t made any measurements yet. I’ll soon be moving the electronics out of the box. I didn’t do anything to seal the seams in the box because it doesn’t seem to be necessary. I did tape the edges of some of the foam boards with clear packing tape to prevent damage.
Design and stl files are available at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:269586
One of the biggest problems with FDM 3D printing is hot-end jamming. There seem to be a lot of causes, most of which are not readily identifiable when a jam occurs. One thing I have found is that after a hot-end jam I can usually grab the filament and manually push it and get it flowing through the hot-end again, though it is too late to save the failed print. The most common means of driving the filament into the hot-end is to pinch the filament between a gear and a bearing and have a motor drive the gear, either directly (with 1.75mm filament) or via a gear reduction/torque multiplier arrangement (3mm filament). When the hot end jams, the large force applied by the gear over the small area of the filament that is pinched between the gear and bearing usually chews a divot in the filament thus destroying the grip.
A couple weeks ago I started designing a 3mm filament extruder for 3D printing. My hope is that this extruder will provide sufficient force on the filament to prevent hot-end jamming from ruining prints. My design uses two counter-rotating 6-32 nuts twisting on the filament (like the way your hands twist in opposite directions when you give a “snakebite” to your friend) to drive it into the hot-end. One is a normal, right-hand threaded nut, the other is left-hand threaded. When the nuts turn in opposite directions, the torque that would try to twist the filament is cancelled while moving the filament forward and reverse without twisting.
The motor has to turn about 1.26 times to move 1mm of filament so there is a huge torque to axial force conversion. The gear diameter is about 30mm. That 1.26 rev moves the gear about 119mm at its perimeter. That means there is about a 119:1 increase (ignoring losses in the gears, bearings, and nuts) in the force at the filament compared to the force at the gear. That force is applied over a larger area of the filament than the usual pinch arrangement, so it is less likely (I hope!) to carve the filament and lose grip. I tried stopping the filament by grabbing it with my fingers and holding as tightly as I could but it didn’t even slow down.
The firmware in the printer has to be tweaked so that it knows exactly how many steps of the motor are required to drive 1mm of filament. The formula is:
32 rev/ 1 inch X 1 inch /25.4 mm X 200 steps/1 rev X 16 microsteps/1 step = 4031.496 microsteps/mm
For initial tests I just input 4031.5 using the rotary encoder on the LCD interface to the RAMPS board in MegaMax.
Here are the parts that I used:
Left hand threaded tap: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YITGY8
5mm brass tubing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/360828686174
5x16x5mm (625Z) bearings: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321062568303
I also used a NEMA-17 motor from a QU-BD extruder.
You can DL the STL files for the printed parts here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:261037
Test printing will start in the next day or so and I will post another video showing success or failure.
After a long series of manipulations, the CT scan derived face was successfully used to make a pencil holder (of all things!). It is about 100mm high and took about 9 hours to print. You can find files that you can use to make your own mash-ups of my face on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:203856
Today was spent researching all the manipulations involved in getting a CT scan into printable form and I managed to get a print out of it. The process starts with DeVide where the dicom data from the CT scan is processed using a dual threshold, decimation filter, and stl writer. The stl file contains a lot of unwanted stuff, in this case, soft tissues inside my head that add triangles but won’t be seen in the print, so those are removed by applying ambient occlusion followed by selecting and deleting vertices by “quality” (which will be very low values for vertices on the interior of the object). This process invariably blows small holes in the desired surface, so you apply a “close holes” filter to fix that (which closed up the nostrils very nicely). Next you open the stl file in netfabb and rotate and clip unwanted external stuff and apply repairs as necessary. Finally, drag it into slicer and scale it. slice and print.
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