Lenox Woodshop – Planer DRO

Some of you may have noticed this little dohicky on the planer in the Lenox woodshop and wondered what it is.
It is a Digital Read Out (DRO). Conceptually a DRO very similar to the digital calipers that many of us use, this one just happens to be mounted permanently to the machine. DROs have long been used the machining world as that type of work is far more precise as wood moves and metal does not. What we do have a need for is repeatability. Now, if you need to plane one more board down to the same thickness as the ones you did an hour ago, you can.

Here are the instructions as well:

Instructions:
If the display is off, press the power button. (The only one without a label)

DRO-1.jpeg

When the screen comes on, it may be in one of the following modes: mm, decimal in or fractional in. I would recommend using mm or decimal in as the fractional in does not feel like it updates its value. Simply put, I do not trust it.
The measurement mode can be changed by pressing the Mode button
DRO-2.jpeg

DRO-4.jpeg

DRO-5.jpeg

In the above pictures you will notice that in the upper left there is CAL displayed. This indicates the DRO is using the calibrated scale for measurement. You can change to the incremental scale by pressing Cal/0 and is indicated by INC in the upper left. This will give you a 0 setpoint wherever you are currently at. This 0 setpoint will be lost when you change back to using the CAL scale.
DRO-3.jpeg
There is tape over the battery cover. Please DO NOT ever remove the battery. Battery remove will reset the calibration to 0 at whatever height the DRO is at when powered again. While not terribly hard or difficult to do, calibration is fiddly and does require time to complete.

Left Shark Renovation Project

When the Milwaukee Makerspace was new, we relied on donations and hand-me-downs for a lot of our equipment.  In 2015, member Tom Gondek lent us a ULS V460 laser that he had used for one project.  That project happened to be cutting PVC!  It was his laser, so he can do what he wants with it.  So when we received the laser, it was pretty corroded.  We ended up buying this laser off of him after it caught fire.  Very surprisingly, this did not make the V-460 inoperable.  It chugged away through a few fires, through corrosion, through heavy rail damage from lack of cleaning, through the air assist cone not staying on, through shot springs on the x-axis…in other words, this laser has seen some sh*t.

 

Since this laser came to us in 2015, the year of the famous/infamous super bowl show with Katy Perry, Hapto (Sarah Davitt) came up with the name “Left Shark” for the laser.

Lets face it: Left Shark was simply *not* member’s favorite laser.  Between not being able to go over 60% speed, the honeycomb being…for lack of a better word: wonky, and  the cone not staying on…oh, and lets not forget that it cut at an angle because of the springs.

So with help from a group buy, and a very generous donation, we purchased a brand new X-axis, as well as the Y-axis rails AND a carrier.

I (Anna) started right away taking left shark apart.  It was so messed up.

This was my first time taking apart and putting back together a laser.  I figured, if I can take apart my ender 3 and my CR-10 multiple times when fixing them, I could do this.  Unfortunately, ULS did not send ANYTHING  BUT THE RAILS.  So this meant…that we didn’t have any new bands, any new pulleys or bearings to pull the bands, no hardware…it didn’t even come with the stopper at the end of the right Y-Axis.  Of course, the majority of our hardware was entirely corroded.

So not only did I have to find new thumb screws and other screws…I had to make new screws, with the assistance of Tom Klein and Bill^2.  I am happily now trained on one of the band saws in the machine shop, and can cut down screws.

I also had to get Bill^2 to get the stopper off the old Y-axis so I could put it on the new rail.

So the next day, I start putting things back together.  Markus took out the honeycomb and began replacing it with a new frame (after the bad fire, he epoxied the old frame in, so we needed an entirely new frame).

It was at this point, I realized that they did not include the back side of the X-axis, which holds the tube for the air assist.  So..I had to take that off the old rail and that rusty thing on the new rail. They also didn’t include an air assist cone…

This was the point where I realized, after I got the bands on and got it moving, that they sent the wrong carrier.  The carrier they sent was not an air assist carrier.  This was the completely incorrect rail.

Our ULS tech graciously got a new rail sent out to us within a few days.  Tony and I worked after the board meeting to get the new rail installed again.  We reused all the old bearings, which were crusty, but work (We will order new bearings soon).

Tony and I worked together to get the rails adjusted and the bands tight enough.  He then taught me how to use alignment mode to adjust the mirrors and align it.

Two days later, Markus installed the new honeycomb.

I also replaced the lens, because tony bought a bunch of lenses on ali and I wanted this to feel like a brand new laser.

And as of Thursday evening, Left Shark was a brand new laser.  The tube was still fantastic (surprising since it was last replaced in 2013), and it is running smoother than Right Shark (the crowd favorite).

So feel free to use Left Shark.  Please ensure you thoroughly clean the rails, the lens, and the cone and mirror after each use.  This was around $3000 to replace everything.  We want it to be treated well.

 

 

 

Neon Titanic Poster

 

Rick Michaels has produced another Neon project.  In this project he wanted to accent major shapes of the Titanic to make it more than just a poster.

Some details:
Red gas-> Neon (Ne)
Blue gas -> Argon+Mercury (ArHg)
Glass: 10mm clear tubing, 10mm 6500 Snow White coated tubing, 8MM clear gold tubing

The water accent is clear glass filled with ArHg and the boot stripe (bottom stripe on a boat) is filled with Ne.

Starting with the poster, Rick sketched out his ideas with the assistance of design software to simulate the look and feel of the final project.

The next step was to create an actual size pattern for the glass.  The pattern is constructed with 2 parallel lines representing the width pf the glass to be used
Note: projects are bent backwards so that the final pieces present evenly to the viewer (all wiring is on the back, etc.)

From there the construction of the glass pieces.  In many cases it may take a few attempts to get it right (and to have extras in case of a breakage :)
Examples of the ships railing and smoke stack accents below

Once the glass made and processed, the next step was to construct an enclosure (aka a box) in which the poster can be mounted and contain all of the electrical elements hidden from the viewer.
Example of how 2 areas work togther to create the final project – WoodShop + Neon Shop.

Finally, cutting the holes in the final assembly for the glass to be mounted.

 

Nice Work!!!!!

Iron Casting: MMS Winter Iron Pour

The Casting Area is running another Iron Pour.

This Event will be open to participants, Members and Non-Members.

Please contact Dave directly if you are a Visiting Artist/Non-member and need studio time to make your own artist mold. All non-members must sign the “Iron Casting Waiver” to participate.

Studio Time is to be scheduled in advance. If you plan on bringing a mold or making a mold all weights must be estimated and metal must be broken by said attendee. If you are unable to break iron due to medical reasons please reach out to Dave.

Resin-bonded sand molds are weighed before they get to the pour floor.

Artist Tile and Doodle Bowl Workshops:

Saturday 12-14-24 @ 12:30-3:30

Sunday 12-22-24 @ 12:30-3:30

Saturday 01-11-25 @ 12:30-3:30

Saturday January 11th

We are planning to have the Safety Meeting at noon. If you plan on participating on the pour floor, show up to the safety meeting and sign the waiver, it’s required. Observation will be available from the north side of the pour floor. Observation will only be accessible from Norwich Ave. The proposed Schedule is the following:

8:00am Pour floor setup (leveling and placing molds)

9:00am Scratch blocks & Doodle Bowls available for sale.

10:30am burn-in (preheat furnace with immersion burner forced air and natural gas)

12:00 safety meeting Immediately after the safety meeting, we go on blast. *Going on Blast – removing immersion burner and attaching Blower to the furnace and entirely running of forced air and Coke Start charging iron/coke as it settles

1:00pm Should have first tap, Tapping every 13 minutes.

4:00pm Drop bottom when all molds are filled – brief clean up.  

 

Sunday, Janurary 12th

10:00am Clean-up and devesting molds:

Clean-up is required if you have an artist mold on the pour floor. All Artist Tiles/Doodle Bowls will be out on display for pickup. No additional payment is required for these items. For Artist Molds, gating and pour cups may be cut off and thrown in the iron pile.

Please weigh your castings and provide payment in the donation bin or via Wild Aprocot bit.ly/3wKtOcS Please Refer to the rates section for pricing https://wiki.milwaukeemakerspace.org/areas/casting/rates

Contact Dave for more information at dave@davidmarnold.com or via cell phone 4142150499 

More from the Neon Program

More projects beaming out of the Neon program.

Key -> HgAr = Mercury with Argon gas; creates a powder blue color, Ne = Neon gas; no vacancy red :)

Penguin

Rick’s first project in Neon was a multi-area project utilizing the woodshop for the frame and the Neon area to construct the penguin.

Dimensions: 26″w x 38’h, 10mm glass filled with HgAr

From 50K feet, how was it done?

  • Rick started off with a pattern for the glass.
  • From the pattern, he inverted the pattern to redraw in reverse.  This is required so that the surface of the penguin lays flat on a surface, while the electrodes and complex bends push to the back.
  • To ensure that all of the elctrodes allow the penguin parts to display at the same level, he made sure that all the glass ends were cut to the same size (Note, the glass penetrates the wood base and is wired to the transformer in the back)
  • The wood box enclosure (cavity towrds the wall), was contructed in the woodshop.
  • The holes for the glass pieces were measured based on the actual units for a perfect fit.
  • All 4 glass units are connected in series to a ~6.5KV30mA transformer
  • Rick also added a “white wash” of paint, adding accent and dimesion, to make penguin standout against the black background

 

The Knot

Devon, as a professional scientific glassblower, had no issue attemping this advanced neon project for his first MMS Neon  project.

Dimensions: 10″ diameter (front curcle), 11″ diamater back circle, ~5’depth, Front piece filled with HgAr, the back piece filled with Ne; 10mm glass

From 50K feet, how was it done?

  • A pattern was made for the knot (blue) and the backlight circle (red)
  • Symmetry is significantly challenging at this scale, compounded with the “weaving” of the glass to achive the knot in 1 continuous piece of glass.
  • The design of this piece utilizes a indirect lighting technique (backlight) that allows the red glow to be seen without actually seeing the glass.
  • Using the black arylic disks allows for the blue knot to stadout against the red backlighting.
  • The Ne and HgAr units are connected in series to a ~4kV transformer
  • By design, allowing the ends of the knot to extend beyond the surface of the front disc, allows for some of the blue and red to mix on the wall in the background. This effect adds additional color mixing, enhancing the overall piece.
  • The construction of the discs and placement of the glass allow for shadows to reveal. This effect adds volume to the piece (as seen above witht the light blue shadow)

Excellent job by both!

We play on Wednesday nights at the Norwich site.  Please swing by or ask the artists for specifics about their pieces.