Space improvement day was fun! Please come next time!

OK, so maybe clearing sludge from the horizontal band saw isn’t, honestly, fun. But it felt good to help improve the space. And thanks to a cook-out organized and mostly executed by Bryan Flannery, the afterparty was fun indeed.  Thanks all those who helped with grunt work and some key projects. As for those who missed out, we’d love to share the fun with you next time!

 

SID June 3 '23

SID June 3 ’23

Iron Casting: Workshop

Sunday June 11th @ 2pm. please RSVP by emailing Dave at dave@davidmarnold.com or texting at 414-215-0449

“Workshops are for Scratch Blocks and Doodle Bowls. These are premade molds that you just scratch your design in.

This includes the cost of metal and prices are below.

3″ Artist Tiles – $7
5″ Artist Tiles – $15

*Doodle Bowls – $45

*You must complete one Artist Tile Mold before purchasing a doodle bowl.”

Casting Area Wiki

GOLD!!!! I Love Gold!

Hello Makers!

Ever wondered how pottery artists create those stunning, metallic gold accents on their pieces? The secret lies in a wonderful material known as gold luster. Today, we’re diving into the world of gold luster – what it is, how it’s used, and some key things you need to know before you start experimenting with it in your own pottery projects.

What is Gold Luster?

Gold luster is an overglaze – a decorative element applied to pottery after it’s been bisque fired and glaze fired. Its primary ingredient is gold, making up about 10-20% of the mixture. The rest is a blend of fluxes and oils. Fluxes help the gold adhere to the ceramic surface, while the oils assist in the application process.

Application and Firing

Gold luster is usually brushed onto the pottery piece, allowing you to highlight specific areas with that luxurious gold finish. Once applied, the piece goes back into the kiln for what’s known as a luster or overglaze firing. This firing is at a much lower temperature than the previous firings – around 018-020 in the Orton Cone rating system (approximately 1315-1377°F or 715-747°C).

Safety and Practicality

Before you get started, there are a few safety and practical considerations to keep in mind. Gold lusters often contain materials that can be harmful if not handled properly. Always work in a well-ventilated area when applying gold luster, and make sure to clean up thoroughly afterwards.

Additionally, while the finished product can be stunning, gold luster surfaces may not be food-safe. If you’re creating functional ware, it’s advisable to avoid placing luster on surfaces that will come into contact with food.

The Cost of Beauty

One more thing to bear in mind is that gold luster is a luxury item in the pottery world. The gold content makes it quite expensive, and it should be used sparingly. However, the impact it creates can be worth the cost – a little goes a long way in adding that extra sparkle to your ceramics.

Tool Design Challenge

Ever see a YouTube video of someone making something and have an immediate need to make one for your-self?  Happens to me all the time.  Last week I saw this video from creator Steven Bennett.  In it he designs and builds a fume extractor designed to look like a Makita power tool.

It seamed like a fun design exercise and I have been doing a lot of soldering at home any way.  I choose to make my fume extractor in the style of Milwaukee Tool for obvious reasons.  This is not my first project that adopts the over molding look of a red and black power tool.  SO it was also a good opportunity to have another go at DIY over molding using resin printed molds.  Resin is the way to go here for a couple reasons.  First the material come in clear, this means that when filling the mold it is easy to see when and where it is filling up.  Second, no sanding is necessary on the interior of the mold.

 

I am using a Smooth-On urethane rubber colored with black pigment.  On a side note the inside of the mold needs a heavy coat of mold release if you want to remove it with the part intact.  I may or may not have learned that the hard way.   The mold shells are held on with some clamps and then the edges are sealed with modeling clay.  After the urethane is mixed it can be injected with a small syringe into a hole in the mold shell.