I really like the refreshing taste of San Pellegrino, but dislike that this water is bottled in Europe, shipped over water and delivered to me in Milwaukee, where we also have water. San Pellegrino costs about $1.75 per liter, and comes in recyclable bottles. The homemade version I’ve been making for the last four months costs less than one penny per liter, and is made in my kitchen in reusable bottles. The cost of the equipment was less than $150, which paid for itself after I’d carbonated my first 100 liters of water.
The equipment required is relatively simple: An aluminum tank that contains 5Lbs of CO2, a gas regulator, a hose ending with a locking Schrader air chuck, a plastic bottle, a bottle cap with a Schrader valve stem mounted in it and two hose clamps. All of these items are visible in the photos below.
The aluminum tank and gas regulator are available locally at restaurant or homebrew supply stores, or online from places like beveragefactory.com or coppertubingsales.com. Prices at these latter two places are $85 – $100 for the pair. I filled the CO2 tank for $9 at a local beer retailer. I purchased the locking chrome plated air chuck, the stainless steel hose barb connected to it, the hose clamps, and the steel wire reinforced hose from a local hardware store for $15. The Schrader valve stems were purchased from a local auto parts store – they are fully chrome plated, and are sold as replacement car tire valve stems for $2 each.
I initially used standard industrial air hose fittings instead of Schrader valves, but ran into several problems. Only one side of this type of fitting seals when the mating fittings are disconnected. This means that after a liter is carbonated and the hose is detached from the plastic bottle, either all the CO2 in the hose leaks out, or some of the CO2 leaks out of the bottle. Also, inexpensive industrial air fittings are either made of steel or bronze and begin to corrode due to exposure to the carbonic acid formed when the water is carbonated. Chrome plated Schrader valves have neither of these problems, and are even less expensive than industrial air fittings.
The carbonation process is also simple. I fill a plastic San Pellegrino bottle 80% to 85% full of Brita filtered water chilled to ~36 degrees (standard refrigerator temperature), I squeeze all the air out of the bottle and tighten the plastic cap with the Schrader valve onto it. I fully open the CO2 tank valve, set the gas regulator valve to 55 PSI (typical commercial waters are carbonated to about 20 PSI), squeeze the locking Schrader air chuck, and lock it onto the bottle. CO2 immediately begins to flow, and inflates the bottle instantly. An audible hiss continues as the CO2 pressurizes the bottle, which I shake vigorously for 20 to 25 seconds, after which time the CO2 hiss has stopped. The hose is then disconnected from the bottle, and the water is carbonated!
All these details are important to successful carbonation. The empty space in the bottle (the 15% to 20% of the bottle that doesn’t contain water) is critical to allowing the CO2 to get and stay in suspension. The amount of CO2 that is soluble in water increases with colder temperatures. Squeezing out all the air allows for more CO2 to fit in the bottle. Shaking the bottle increases the rate at which the CO2 dissolves in the water. All of these factors make for more fizzy water (which is the goal, right?)
The taste of San Pellegrino can be more accurately replicated with the addition of minerals. With the addition of 1/8 tsp of Magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts) and 1/8 tsp of calcium chloride, one achieves the 210mg/L of Calcium and 60mg/L of Magnesium that San Pellegrino has! Both of these minerals are wine/beer brewing additives, and can be purchased from local homebrew supply stores. Check here for more mineral additive possibilities, and the book “The Good Water Guide” for the mineral composition of most commercial waters on Earth. I find that carbonating to 55 PSI rather than a more reasonable 20 to 25 PSI makes for so much more joy that I (and my kidneys) don’t miss the extra minerals.
If you want to make this setup at home, please follow these safety guidelines. There are several which are very important, as a gas cylinder is somewhat dangerous, as its internal pressure is between 700 to 800 PSI, depending on temperature. Carrying the cylinder by its valve is a bad idea. The tank should be secured at all times so it doesn’t tip over and damage the valve. When it is transported, it should always be upright and it shouldn’t be left in a car sitting in the sun, as the internal pressure will increase hundreds of PSI. The regulator you purchase should have a pressure safety valve which releases at ~60 PSI to vent excess pressure and prevent your plastic bottle from exploding. Similarly, your hose should be rated for higher than the pressure you intend to carbonate to. You should never carbonate in glass bottles.
I measured the pH of my 55 PSI carbonated water, and found it to be 4.6, whereas the pH of Coke is a much more acidic 3.2, as shown below. The pH of my water prior to carbonation was a perfectly neutral 7.0.




Buy Milwaukee Makerspace shirts and stuff at our Zazzle store.


Awesome. :-)
That single stage regulator will bleed out your tank once it gets below 500 PSI.
Works far better with a $150+ two stage unit VS the $35 one stager.
The gas pressure in the cylinder remains virtually constant until it is nearly empty and all the liquid CO2 has evaporated. Then the pressure inside the tank will start to drop, eventually reaching 500 PSI. It seems like spending an extra $115 on a fancier regulator to save the last 0.4% (3.6 cents) of a $9 tank of CO2 from “bleeding out” will only be worth it after I’ve refilled my tank 3194 times.
Cool setup. I have almost the same setup coming off of my keggerator to charge pelligrino bottles as well. One question: where did you find the chrome plated schrader valves? The only ones I could find are at the auto parts store and they are made of rubber, which has that ‘rubber’ smell which I don’t want in my water.
The replacement tire valve stems I purchased locally are similar to these: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/XTS0/1545592.oap?ck=Search_N1769_-1_3275 They have one necessary rubber seal, but are otherwise chrome plated steel.
It’s nice to have a well-stocked “junk box”!
I just built this for a total outlay of $9, for a pair of chrome valve stems and a good air chuck.
Not sure how much is left in my 20# CO2 bottle, but I’ll bet it’s far more than a full Soda Stream canister!
Hear what he says about gas cylinders and temps. I left my toolkit on the seat of my light aeroplane one night after working on it on an Australian outback airstrip. Came back in the morning to find a big mess. Sun had heated the CO2 bottles in the emergency kit, and they exploded. Pure luck nothing went through the canopy causing thousands of dollars damage and making plane unflyable.
beautiful.
i was trying to do something similar, but somehow use corny keg quick releases. your solution is so much cheaper and probably simpler. thank you!
HI good comments, i am thinking of making soda water to supply my local pub ,which is the best and cheapest way.Many thanks Ken
Clever bottling rig! Kudos!
Question: So if you’re shooting for 55psi, how much is retained from removing the Schrader-enabled cap and replacing it with a standard cap? I would assume you’d lose any increase over pre-filled commercial bottles. Assuming you wait for equilibrium, do it quickly, and when swapping caps you don’t jostle the bottle much. (it’s narrow at the neck and smooth so few nucleation sites)
Or do I have it wrong, and you always force carbonate water right before use? Is that even possible? Wouldn’t it come out of solution nearly instantly? See, I need a way to put a dozen or so liters in the fridge, in bottles that don’t scare the wife or look so D.I.Y. to guests/parents.
Thanks for sharing!
So, you want the bottles to look less
D.I.Y.Awesome? If you wait an hour or more for equilibrium, you should be able to swap out the Schrader cap for astandardboring one. You’ll lose the 55 psi in the top 1/7th of the bottle, which will definitely lower the total amount of CO2 in the bottle. When resealed, the bottle will come to a new and lower equilibrium pressure. It would be fun to use science to measure this pressure – but that would require a cap with both a Schrader valve and a pressure sensor!If I were you, I’d embrace my Homebrew roots and dispense carbonated water directly from a 2 or 2.5 gallon cornelius keg kept in the fridge. Many cornelius kegs are labeled “Max 135 PSI,” but I’ve heard that their relief valves open between 30 and 50 PSI, which will limit the amount of CO2 Joy in your glass.
You just need some awesome 3D printed doo-hickey to put on top of the valve on the cap. Make it look even more awesomer and fancier!
Brilliant. I’d also come up with exactly the same setup and used stainless steel tyre valves fitted to bottle caps, pub CO2 cylinder, comercial regulator and tyre pressure hose. Great minds think alike. I’m sure that the very small gas loss when swopping caps after a priod of stabilization hardly affect the final pleasure; the extra initial pressurization and refrigerated temperature will also help overcome any degradation. San Pellegrino bottles are slightly more heavy duty that the run-of-the-mill bottles you can get so be careful with any thinner ones, especially if creased due to squeezing. By the way, San Pellegrino is by far the best tasting table carbonated water. I’d like to start using vintage glass soda syphons but have yet to try this; I’m unsure as to what pressure the thick glass is rated to but I’m think it must be about 150psi so 50psi should be safe. Not quite sure of the mechanics yet though.
Its cool that we arrived at the same carbonating system, and I echo your sentiment on the merits of San Pellegrino! But, for safety, I do strongly discourage carbonating in glass bottles – especially vintage glass bottles. If the bottle fails, the resulting explosion of glass shrapnel isn’t fun to think about!
I agree about the cosequenses. Protection can be put in place in an industrial manner for glass containers, but I would never consider the use of inferior equipment. After all, home brewers use glass containers all the time.
Homebrewers do use glass carboys to ferment in, but the carboy is basically at atmospheric pressure. I say basically, because there is a 1″ water pressure head due to the water in the airlock, but this is 1/400th of an atmosphere, or 0.036 PSI.
The inability to carbonate glass bottles is a disappointing one for me. Then I might as well pre-carbonate the water in a corny keg (borrowing homebrewing techniques) and have it ready to dispense in much larger quantities at a preferred pressure.
Thank you for very good information.
I’m trying to decide 5LB CO2 tank or 20LB. Can anybody tell me how many bottles(1 liter bottles) can I make with 5LB tank??
I normally drink 5-7 liters a day.
From my first 5 lb tank, I made 204 1 liter bottles carbonated to 55psi. I’d expect that number to double if you carbonate to a more reasonable, though less joyful, 27psi.